Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Road Trip: The East

Drowsy driving through drizzled fog mountains, old window wipers smearing. Suddenly a loud bang shocks and uncomfortable rattling knocks under the truck hood. Dan guides us to a remote gas station as I fidget nervously and the noise continues. A spark plug has been completely blown loose of its socket. Dan manages to fix it by sheer force of will and the aid of a lanky teenager’s borrowed tools.

Google map’s prescribed route becomes perilous, narrower and steeper as we continue. Soon it is nothing more than a country road as we brave the lift and fall of the hilly West Virginia Appalachians. The campsite is remote, and the mountain people we meet rarely venture out of their hidden villages. We are offered the “honeymoon suite” campsite, and given extra firewood in exchange for some of Dan’s precious $2 bills. In the morning, we skip stones across a wide shallow river before leaving the very inhabited wilderness.
DC at last. Cool comfort, rest, and a nice dog. King of the feet! Too hot to hold, iridescent blue-greens dance across the bronze surfaces of Dan’s giant masterpiece sculptures. Fantastic food and million dollar sky mall idea. Erratic in and out driving through a maze of construction and intertwining highways.Baltimore: hot and muggy in the afternoon. Anxious leaving the truck and all life belongings on the street, but no robberies occur. Many parts of the city are abandoned. Rows upon rows of empty houses with infrequent interspersings of someone on a lived in front step. We are not dressed right for the fancy opening night sushi experience; too many waitresses hover and replace each plate we touch. Lovely to see talented nurse Greta and master chef Blitz.The Catskills are crowded on a Saturday night. No more space at planned campsite, but another is found: expensive, but ah well this is New York. Crabbiness is counteracted by a hilarious situation as our hostess praises our staying together through this road trip. A beautiful fire flickers late into the night, and we are awakened by heavy rain.High in the remote Adirondacks we wiggle our way to Upper Saranac Lake. As rain continues to fall, it is good to be inside with a warm fire, meeting Dan’s grandpa and the fiery Dee. Origami and Italian food. The next day struggles clear; we visit a large rock and canoe on the lake. Big old turtle is not thrilled at being held, he shakes his long dinosaur tail.

Boston first homecoming is rained out. Grey, wet midwinter weather was not expected. But our new home is cozy and welcoming, as a collaborative dinner with sweet roommates hits the spot. We look out across the wide expanse of Somerville through a curtain of shimmering Aspen leaves, from the nestled nook of our porch in the Cherry tree.

Road Trip: The Middle

Kansas stretches her torso, flat and wide. Few trucks, experimental adventure. Nighttime falls far from our campsite. Late arrival, no obvious sites, drunk couple not as helpful as hoped. So sleep finds our small orange and green tent in a field near a lake, apprehensive of a ranger’s bright flashlight, the slow sounds of approaching footsteps.

More cornfields, always more. Sunflowers occasionally break the monotony, and St. Louis is amazing after so much vastness. An empty downtown, no place to eat, but a beautiful long city park filled with fountains to run through. Lunch by a koi pond on fancy college campus; later, too hot cooking of gourmet food for our couchsurfing hosts. Large glasses, intellectual disinterest, fluid gender, perfect for Portland. A deserted city looks back on busy golden days, retaining archaic brothel laws now affecting only sorority girls.Kentucky unfolds ahead. Intermittent rain and the usual stops. By now, I have learnt the contents of each and every gas station mini-mart. Favorite road snacks: pretzel sticks and white cheddar popcorn. We listen to Sabriel on tape...the bell-ringing abhorsen needs to be taken in small doses.
A winding hilly road past endless Kentucky estates. Large elegant houses and impossibly manicured lawns roll smoothly into the distance. Shining thoroughbred horses graze lazily in broad paddocks as we imagine the fine bourbon that is sipped within immense rooms, under moose antlers. Unfortunately, the roads are named by numbers (not their googlemap names) and soon we are lost in the green hills without phone service. A lucky mirror spotting puts us back on track and eventually we arrive at Carter caves campsite.

Our fire roars as it consumes found wood, and two Kentuckian lesbians embarrassedly ask for help building theirs. Their accents are charming and I wonder about their lives. A night walk reveals firefly jewels and friendly horses. We feed them grass and rub their rough coats until our hands are black with dust. Rain pours before dawn, and I awake in a partial puddle.

Mediocre breakfast in the freezing air-conditioned lodge is plentifully supplied by a constantly apologetic waitress. Hummingbirds swoop and dive, competing fiercely for space at the sugar water feeders beyond the wide window.

Road Trip: The West

Lunch and burnt soles of my feet in Bakersfield. First swamp cooler experience, and giant backyard with POTENTIAL. Wide endless Mojave, colorful hills of shale: ancient sea floor at sharp angles. Flagstaff expensive sushi, rich white people trace and retrace their steps as they shop. We chase a summer rainstorm across vast green sage brush and red rock expanse.Albuquerque sprawls before us, low lying lights in a high, flat valley. Adobe curves and one story houses try to stay cool in the dry heat punctuated by monsoon afternoon rains. Fluffy yogurt pancakes, sun, beer, burritos drowning in New Mexico chile. Muddy quicksand riverbed after dusk, as the moon reflects on slow-moving water. High altitude breath-catching Sandias, a stone house perched on the cliff above the outstretched city. Crawling cockroaches and cool clay. Last long Sarahcoze.Directly NORTH, we see evidence of heavy winter snows along the windswept freeway. Colorado Springs picnic lunch. My dress is too short, causing sidelong looks. Pushy squirrels vie for unattainable treats. Frustration and warm salsa.

Boulder: the ultimate in city planning, reflecting conflicting decisions. Surrounding wide greenbelt is lush and eliminates the threat of continuous suburbs, but leads to expensive food and impossible housing. Strange laws discourage cooperation while trying to avoid filth and crowding. Gorgeous bike paths, health food, tall mountain irons loom. Homemade veggie quiche, candlelit outdoor dinner, the brook babbles by. Warm friends, photos, hand-cranked smoothies mix work and enjoyment.

In Denver, we drink beer on the patio and talk of megafauna, oxygen limitation, and ages past. Rowdy dog steals cupcakes off the stove, shatters expensive wedding present. Five double-cousins appear one-by-one; all tall, competitive, confident in their family bond. Leaf armor, card games, city streets at night and Beta techno beats—one small Leo in a forest of 6 large man-clones.
Whirlwind Museum of Natural History tour: big back bone room, spinning earth, evolution and representation. Entelodont—giant Miocene predator: intelligent ruthless buffalo-sized hell pig.

Saturday, September 4, 2010

Roadtrip Bugs

I woke up in my tent, early one sunny Kansas morning, with this strange shadow above me. I went outside to investigate, and found the large creature below...

In Kentucky, after a heavy summer rain, I saw this big Luna moth drying its wings.

This orange caterpillar sat atop a hand water pump in the Appalachian mountains of West Virginia.